CRF1000AT : "Kill-switch"

09 sept 2019 21:25 - 09 sept 2019 21:29 #1 door RENO
CRF1000AT : "Kill-switch" werd gestart door RENO
ter info !
plaatjes-koppelingen werken helaas niet zie ik....

a2ronm, post: 38162526, member: 121397 schreef : Won't Start - [another] Starter/Kill Switch Issue
At almost exactly 10,000 miles, my 2016 manual finally refused to start (making lots of noises and flashing lots of dash warnings -ABS fail being the most prominent) after sitting for a couple of days since I rode home one night in a "tropical-like" thunderstorm.
Prior to this I had encountered a couple of times the switch did nothing when pressed but turning off the ignition and rocking the switch a couple of times would get it to work. This happened maybe 3 times previously, not lately and seemingly randomly.
My prior "fix" routine didn't get the bike started this time and alternating squirts of WD-40 and contact cleaner didn't help - so time for the switch disassembly as others have done.
I couldn't get good access to the screws on the fwd side of the handlebar switch housing so I had to loosen the 8mm brake cylinder bolts and slide the assembly inward (after unclipping the handguard end) to get some space for access to the switch/throttle housing screws.
I used a #2 JIS bit (my #2 phillips didn't get a good bite) to remove the switch/throttle housing screws then pulled the rider side half of the housing off.
I used a #1 bit to remove the 2 screws holding the switch in place.
[ATTACH=full]1827876[/ATTACH]
After maneuvering the switch out of the housing I pulled the rocker spring off.
[ATTACH=full]1827899[/ATTACH]
Prying up the 2 clips on the switch body opened up the switch and the rotating and fixed contacts had buildup deposits on them.
[ATTACH=full]1827904[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=full]1827906[/ATTACH]
I used a strip of fine grit emery cloth over a pencil eraser and more contact cleaner to clean up the contacts, applied some dielectric grease, reassembled the switch, got the rocker spring installed, then packed the switch with more dielectric grease before I assembled it back into the housing with the #1 screws.
Reassembled the housing (shop manual says upper then lower and torque 2.5 N-m / 1.8 lb-ft) with the #2 JIS bit for the screws, slid the brake cylinder back into place and tightened the 2 bolts (shop manual says upper then lower and torque to 9.8 N-m / 7.2 lb-ft)
Started right up.
[ATTACH=full]1827937[/ATTACH]
Thanks to those who came before and posted.

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